IN/TL/1 — Boxy Heavyweight Tee, Bone

260gsm GOTS organic cotton boxy tee, garment-dyed bone, drop shoulder, made at Somelos Portugal.

Categorytee

Target retail$85

Fabric weight260 gsm

Estimated landed cost$24.25

Estimated margin71.5%

Confidence84%

Material & construction

Fabric	GOTS-certified organic cotton, single jersey 260gsm, garment-dyed after sew
Silhouette	boxy heavyweight crew, drop shoulder 1.75", body length 27.5" at size M, slightly tapered hem, ribbed neck binding
Construction	drop shoulder set-in, double-needle stitched hem 0.375", taped neck binding, side seam construction, no side splits
Trims	woven satin neck label (mill name, GOTS cert number, worker wage tier, GPS coordinates of Somelos), embossed debossed leather flag at left hem, no drawcord
Finishing	garment-dyed after sew, pre-shrunk single cold wash, enzyme wash for hand softness, 2–3% dye-lot variance accepted and noted on open-ledger label as intentional batch characteristic

Colorway

Bone (#E8E0D0)Washed Black (#2A2A2A)

Points of measure (size M)

Specs as recommended. Grade S/L/XL using standard rules (2" chest/hem jumps for tee, 1.5" waist/hip for sweatpant). Tolerance ±¼" on critical dimensions.

Point	Size M
shoulder drop	1.75"
body length hps	27.5"
neck rib height	0.875"
chest pit to pit	23"
sleeve length sho	9"

Recommended factory profile

Region	Portugal
Required certifications	GOTS, OEKO-TEX 100, GRS
Rationale	Somelos composite score 92/100, GOTS + OEKO-TEX 100 certified, knit_jersey + garment_dye capabilities confirmed, accepts indie MOQs (100–300), lead time 8–10wk aligns with Nov 2026 drop. Highest-scored factory in pipeline for this garment type.

Demand evidence

competitorColorful Standard posted 40 tee sellouts in 30 days; Lady White Co posted 9 — combined 49 sellouts in the elevated-basics tee segment validate category demand at premium price points
competitorCole Buxton's 15-SKU blitz is 73% priced $55–$75, commoditizing the mid-tier; IN/TL's 260gsm at $85 with Portugal origin sits above that race-to-bottom band
socialr/malefashionadvice thread on essential basics (86 upvotes) + Banana Republic quality thread (163 upvotes noting 'luxury weight tees remain worthwhile') validate demand for heavyweight basics over commodity cotton
brand_fitInternal cost structure: FOB $16, landed $24.25, retail $85 = 71.5% GM — matches IN/TL's costed 260gsm tee exactly. 220gsm at same price would erode brand positioning without margin benefit.

Risk flags

220gsm requested by founder but brand identity targets 260gsm — recommend 260gsm at same $85 price; lower GSM at equal price reads as margin grab, not upgrade

Tee sellout velocity (31 sellouts/30d across tracked competitors) is 3.6x lower than sweatpants (112); tee anchors Drop #1 narrative but is not the highest-conversion SKU

Bone colorway widely used by Cole Buxton and Colorful Standard — differentiation relies on open-ledger label and Portugal origin story, not colorway novelty

Why this for IN/TL

Anchors Drop #1 with IN/TL's core transparency artifact — the four-line woven label (mill, wage, cert, GPS) is undeployed by Cole Buxton and Colorful Standard. At $85 with 71.5% GM and Somelos Portugal sourcing, this is the brand's most defensible first statement.

Acceptance criteria (sample review)

Hand-feel matches reference garment within ±10% weight tolerance.
Color matches Pantone TCX / lab dip approved before bulk.
All points of measure within ±¼" on size M; grade rules pass for S, L, XL.
GOTS + OEKO-TEX certificates received and verified before bulk PO.
Sample washed 5x at home temperature — no shrinkage beyond 3%, no pilling.
Stitch density ≥ 10 SPI on critical seams; coverstitch on hem.