IN/TL/1 — Boxy Tee, Bone

220gsm GOTS organic cotton boxy tee, garment-dyed bone white, drop shoulder 1.75", made at Somelos Portugal.

Categorytee

Target retail$85

Fabric weight220 gsm

Estimated landed cost$24.25

Estimated margin71.5%

Confidence78%

Material & construction

Fabric	GOTS-certified organic cotton, single jersey 220gsm, garment-dyed post-sew for hand and variance character
Silhouette	boxy heavyweight crew, drop shoulder 1.75", body length 27.5" at size M, slightly cropped relative to brand identity tee target — deliberate step down from 260gsm brand target to honor $85 price ceiling without compromising silhouette architecture
Construction	drop shoulder set-in, double-stitched hem 0.375", taped neck binding, side seams, tubular body rejected for size consistency
Trims	woven satin neck label (mill name, GOTS cert number, worker wage tier, GPS coordinates of Somelos), no external branding on chest, embossed rubber flag label at left hem seam
Finishing	garment-dyed after sew at Somelos, single enzyme wash for hand softness, pre-shrunk, dye-lot number printed on interior label as intentional brand feature

Colorway

Bone (#E8E0D0)Washed Black (#2A2A2A)Chalk (#F5F0E8)

Points of measure (size M)

Specs as recommended. Grade S/L/XL using standard rules (2" chest/hem jumps for tee, 1.5" waist/hip for sweatpant). Tolerance ±¼" on critical dimensions.

Point	Size M
shoulder drop	1.75"
body length hps	27.5"
neck rib height	0.875"
chest pit to pit	22.5"
sleeve length sho	8.75"

Recommended factory profile

Region	Portugal
Required certifications	GOTS, OEKO-TEX 100
Rationale	Somelos: composite score 92, GOTS + OEKO-TEX 100 certified, knit_jersey + garment_dye capabilities confirmed, accepts_indie true, MOQ 100–300 achievable. Highest-scored factory in pipeline for this garment type.

Demand evidence

competitorColorful Standard tee: 40 sellouts in 30d — highest tee sellout count among tracked competitors, validating premium basics tee demand at this tier
competitorCole Buxton 15-drop blitz concentrated 73% at $55–$75 signals budget-basics saturation; IN/TL's $85 differentiated-weight positioning sits above that noise
market436 minimalist tee drops in 30d confirms category heat; zero price drift validates $85 non-promotional anchor as market-accepted ceiling
socialr/malefashionadvice thread on essential basics rebuilding wardrobe (86 upvotes) signals active purchase intent for quality-first tees
newsNAUTICA Made-in-USA tee drop (Hypebeast, relevance 75) validates manufacturing origin as premium tee differentiator — IN/TL's Portugal story is the equivalent lever
brand_fitBone colorway aligns with IN/TL quiet-declarative aesthetic; garment-dye at Somelos (composite score 92, garment_dye capable) is documented in pipeline

Risk flags

220gsm is below IN/TL's stated 240–280gsm tee identity target — must be positioned honestly on open-ledger label; do not obscure the weight delta vs brand narrative

Garment-dye batch variance 2–3% at this weight; reframe as intentional dye-lot character on neck label, not defect

Tees show 3.6x lower sellout conversion vs sweatpants (31 vs 112 sellouts in prior 30d data); tee anchors narrative but should not be the sole Drop #1 SKU if capital allows pairing

Why this for IN/TL

Executes founder's exact brief at the real costed structure ($24.25 landed / $85 retail / 71.5% gross margin). Bone colorway + garment-dye at Somelos converts the open-ledger positioning from rhetoric to a physical artifact on the neck label — undeployed by Cole Buxton and Colorful Standard at this price point.

Acceptance criteria (sample review)

Hand-feel matches reference garment within ±10% weight tolerance.
Color matches Pantone TCX / lab dip approved before bulk.
All points of measure within ±¼" on size M; grade rules pass for S, L, XL.
GOTS + OEKO-TEX certificates received and verified before bulk PO.
Sample washed 5x at home temperature — no shrinkage beyond 3%, no pilling.
Stitch density ≥ 10 SPI on critical seams; coverstitch on hem.