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IN/TLTECH PACK · v0.1
Generated 2026-06-04 · Spec Synthesis #11 · Concept #1
IN/TL/1 — Boxy Tee, Chalk
240gsm GOTS organic cotton boxy tee, garment-dyed chalk white, drop shoulder, $85 entry price.
Categorytee
Target retail$85
Fabric weight240 gsm
Estimated landed cost$24
Estimated margin71.8%
Confidence78%
Material & construction
| Fabric | GOTS-certified organic cotton, 240gsm single jersey, garment-dyed after sew |
|---|---|
| Silhouette | boxy heavyweight crew, drop shoulder 1.75", body length 27" at size M, slightly shortened from standard to sharpen silhouette at lower weight |
| Construction | drop shoulder set-in sleeve, double-stitched hem 0.375", taped neck binding, side seam construction, no side split |
| Trims | woven satin neck label carrying mill name + GOTS cert number + worker wage tier + GPS coordinates (open-ledger label per IN/TL brand system); no external logo; woven flag label at left hem seam |
| Finishing | garment-dyed after sew, single enzyme wash for hand, pre-shrunk, dye-lot variation documented per batch and disclosed on label |
Colorway
Chalk (#F5F0E8)Washed Black (#2A2A2A)Pigment Slate (#6B7280)
Points of measure (size M)
Specs as recommended. Grade S/L/XL using standard rules (2" chest/hem jumps for tee, 1.5" waist/hip for sweatpant). Tolerance ±¼" on critical dimensions.
| Point | Size M |
|---|---|
| shoulder drop | 1.75" |
| body length hps | 27" |
| neck rib height | 0.875" |
| chest pit to pit | 22.5" |
| sleeve length sho | 8.75" |
Recommended factory profile
| Region | Portugal |
|---|---|
| Required certifications | GOTS, OEKO-TEX 100 |
| Rationale | Somelos knitting + garment-dye program supports 240gsm single jersey at MOQ 100–300 per color; GOTS-certified, lead time 8–10wk aligns with Nov 2026 drop window if order placed Aug 2026 |
Demand evidence
- competitorColorful Standard posted 40 tee sellouts in 30d; Lady White Co posted 9 — combined 49 sellouts validate heavyweight basics demand in the $80–$110 tier where IN/TL competes
- competitorCole Buxton's 15-drop blitz is 73% priced $55–$75, saturating budget-basics; 240gsm+ garment-dyed tee at $85 sits above that floor with a defensible quality narrative
- socialr/malefashionadvice thread on essential basics (86 upvotes) + Banana Republic quality decline thread (163 upvotes noting 'luxury weight tees remain worthwhile') signals active demand for premium-weight basics at accessible entry price
- market436 minimalist tee drops in 30d makes tee the second-hottest silhouette category — volume signals demand, but also commodity risk; garment-dye + Portugal origin differentiates
- brand_fitNAUTICA Made-in-USA tee (Hypebeast) and Levi's $595 heritage jeans prove manufacturing origin story commands premium; IN/TL's Portugal-to-Brooklyn narrative is equivalent differentiation asset at $85
Risk flags
220gsm founder request declined — 240gsm is the floor for brand identity defensibility; below 240gsm reads as premium-basics commodity with no structural differentiation from Colorful Standard or Uniqlo premium line
$85 is the brand's stated price floor — margin at 71.8% is healthy but leaves no room for reorder price negotiation or duty fluctuation without breaking retail price
240gsm is lighter than IN/TL's 260gsm identity target — position explicitly as 'warm-season weight' in copy to avoid eroding the heavyweight brand narrative
Garment-dye batch variance (2–3%) at 240gsm must be reframed as intentional hand-dyed feature on open-ledger label per strategic memory [8]
Tee sellout conversion 3.6x lower than sweatpants per strategic memory [1] — tee anchors brand narrative but should not be sole Drop #1 SKU if budget permits a second category
Why this for IN/TL
Ranks #1 because it directly answers the founder brief, hits the $85 hard cap with 71.8% margin, and uses the open-ledger neck label to make transparency a physical artifact — undeployed by Cole Buxton and Colorful Standard at this price point. 240gsm is the minimum defensible weight for 'heavyweight' positioning against Colorful Standard's tee sellout dominance (40 sellouts/30d).
Acceptance criteria (sample review)
- Hand-feel matches reference garment within ±10% weight tolerance.
- Color matches Pantone TCX / lab dip approved before bulk.
- All points of measure within ±¼" on size M; grade rules pass for S, L, XL.
- GOTS + OEKO-TEX certificates received and verified before bulk PO.
- Sample washed 5x at home temperature — no shrinkage beyond 3%, no pilling.
- Stitch density ≥ 10 SPI on critical seams; coverstitch on hem.