IN/TL/1 — Boxy Tee, Chalk

240gsm GOTS organic cotton boxy tee, garment-dyed in Chalk — the entry artifact for IN/TL's open-ledger drop.

Categorytee

Target retail$85

Fabric weight240 gsm

Estimated landed cost$24

Estimated margin71.8%

Confidence76%

Material & construction

Fabric	GOTS-certified organic cotton, single jersey, 240gsm, garment-dyed post-sew
Silhouette	boxy heavyweight crew, drop shoulder 1.75", body length 27" at size M, slightly tapered below armscye to avoid sack silhouette
Construction	drop shoulder set-in, double-stitched hem 0.375", taped neck binding, single-needle topstitch at sleeve hem
Trims	woven satin neck label (mill name, worker wage tier, GOTS cert number, GPS coordinates — four-line open-ledger format); no hem flag on tee to hold cost at $85
Finishing	garment-dyed after sew, single enzyme wash for hand and pre-shrink, batch variance documented per dye lot on label

Colorway

Chalk (#F0EDE8)Washed Black (#2B2B2B)Dune (#C4A882)

Points of measure (size M)

Specs as recommended. Grade S/L/XL using standard rules (2" chest/hem jumps for tee, 1.5" waist/hip for sweatpant). Tolerance ±¼" on critical dimensions.

Point	Size M
shoulder drop	1.75"
body length hps	27"
neck rib height	0.875"
chest pit to pit	22.5"
sleeve length sho	9"

Recommended factory profile

Region	Portugal
Required certifications	GOTS, OEKO-TEX 100
Rationale	Somelos and Coelima both run garment-dye programs on 240gsm single jersey; MOQ 100-300 achievable; 8-10wk lead time fits Nov 2026 horizon; physical visit feasible from Brooklyn pre-production

Demand evidence

competitorColorful Standard posted 40 tee sellouts in 30d; Lady White Co 9 — both validate premium heavyweight tee demand at $80-120 tier without discounting
competitorCole Buxton flooding market with 15 drops at $55-75 creates whitespace for a story-first 240gsm tee priced at $85 with full supply-chain disclosure
socialr/malefashionadvice thread on essential shirts/tops (86 upvotes) shows active demand for elevatable basics with mix-and-match utility — directly maps to IN/TL's boxy crew
socialr/malefashionadvice Banana Republic quality thread (163 upvotes) notes 'luxury weight tees remain worthwhile' and industry shift toward roomier fits — validates heavyweight + boxy positioning
market436 minimalist tee drops in 30d signals category heat; zero price drift in adjacent categories signals consumers accept non-promotional pricing — IN/TL's $85 holds without markdown pressure
brand_fitEverlane-Shein collapse (r/femalefashionadvice, 1,247 upvotes) created transparency vacuum; open-ledger neck label on this tee directly converts trust positioning to tactile product differentiation

Risk flags

240gsm is a compromise — brand identity targets 260gsm; at 240gsm the hand-feel delta vs. Cole Buxton's comparable weight tees narrows, reducing tactile differentiation

Founder brief specified 220gsm — this concept upgrades to 240gsm to protect brand positioning; founder must confirm weight override before sampling

$85 price cap compresses margin vs. $110 sweet spot; limits paid acquisition budget at launch and leaves no room for gifting/PR samples without eroding unit economics

Garment-dye on 240gsm introduces 2-3% batch color variance — must be disclosed on open-ledger label as intentional, not flagged as defect per strategic memory insight

Why this for IN/TL

Colorful Standard's 40 tee sellouts and Lady White Co's 9 confirm premium tee demand is real but thin — IN/TL's open-ledger four-line neck label converts transparency positioning into a physical artifact competitors haven't deployed, creating defensible differentiation at the $85 price ceiling the founder set.

Acceptance criteria (sample review)

Hand-feel matches reference garment within ±10% weight tolerance.
Color matches Pantone TCX / lab dip approved before bulk.
All points of measure within ±¼" on size M; grade rules pass for S, L, XL.
GOTS + OEKO-TEX certificates received and verified before bulk PO.
Sample washed 5x at home temperature — no shrinkage beyond 3%, no pilling.
Stitch density ≥ 10 SPI on critical seams; coverstitch on hem.